By using a thicker wire or winding the coils at a different pitch, short springs can be given a higher spring rate that will prevent lowered suspensions from bottoming out so easily. These lowering springs-or sport springs-work on the same principle as cut coils, but they overcome some of the drawbacks by employing a different design from the start. Several companies offer replacement coil springs specifically designed for lowering cars. An air-powered cutoff wheel, hacksaw, or chop saw are the best tools for cutting springs.
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In addition, front springs should be left long enough so they won't shift or slip out of the spring pockets when the suspension is at full droop (completely unloaded). If you're going to cut coils, we suggest using new (or relatively new) springs and cutting them in small increments (1/4-coil at a time) on the open, or "wild," end. We should also note that you can't cut coils that are tapered on both ends (like the rear springs on '67-and-later A-bodies, as well as some other Chevys). Instead, we recommend it for making minor ride height adjustments (an inch or less).
In general, we aren't big proponents of coil cutting as a primary means of significantly altering a car's height. Cutting coils typically increases the likelihood of bottoming out either the suspension or the chassis (like when your crossmember hits the pavement), and that potential is exaggerated with older coils that are already suffering from fatigue. This not only lowers the car, it also alters the spring rate (the amount of force required to deflect the spring) slightly. It basically entails removing the coil springs and cutting off a coil or so, making the springs shorter. This is probably the most time-honored method for lowering the front (and sometimes rear) of a Chevy, but that doesn't automatically make it the best.
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